Heater channels and body stuff

emptyfeat · 07-01-2009, 05:26 PM

As some, if not all of you have experienced (being presumptuous!), the bolts underneath the body of my beetle that go through the heater channels are full on seized and don't want to move anywhere. Those that do move are taking chunks of heater channel with them.

What I thought would be a good idea was to cut the channels from the inside of the car so only the bottom plates of the channels are still connected to the floor i.e the bits that the bolts are actually fastened to. My thinking is that when I take to body off, the heater channel bolts won't be a concern because I've cut the heater channels away from them.

I did try simply grinding the bolt heads down, but my dremel can't be dealing with that!

My question is, am I wasting my time cutting the heater channels the way I am? If I continue what I'm doing, will the body actually come off?! bearing in mind that the entire heating system is being replaced.

While I'm here, question 2. I'm putting front disc brakes and lowering the front end using drop spindles. Would I need a narrowed axle to compensate for the inch or so that the wheels are going to move outwards?

Ta again. I would ask some of my questions at a club meet, but until my beetle is done and I can drive places, I can't get to one, so this is my only portal for advise!!

kkkango · 07-01-2009, 05:35 PM

if the rust is bad I would weld a body cross brace in and door post braces before cutting out the heater channels to remove the body as they will help keep the correct spacings and shape for when you put the new panels in.
frontend a narrower beam will ensure no wing foul on turns caused by moving the wheels out on the spindles but wheel and tyre selection also has an effect as will some after market l/h wings that cause fouling on r/h turns.

flat4fanatic · 07-01-2009, 07:50 PM

I never weld channels in off the body - too much of a risk of them not ligning up with the floor pan holes and the shell warping. Just chop the channel out in situ and you'll still be able to get to the backs of the bolts. Brace the gap across te door to before you do any cutting

bem narrowing wise it depends on if youre running std wheels or alloys and if your bug has repro front wings (n/s wheel isn't tucked in as far as the o/s)

emptyfeat · 08-01-2009, 02:19 AM

I'm not replacing the channels just yet. I'm working from the bottom up, on a full body off restoration thing. So getting the body off is priority to work on the stuff underneath.

The way I'm cutting it (I think) means the main structure of the channels will still be attached to the body. The rust seems to be located only on the bottom/base plates of the channels so I'm hoping that when I take the body off, the channels will still be part of the body, if that makes sense? So, bracing shouldn't be necessary as the channels (minus what vw heritage call the heater channel closing panels Classic VW auto parts, VW spares, VW accessories) are still holding everything in situ. Should I brace as a precaution? To give you an idea, I'm cutting a line along the channels from the holes where the footwell heater vents are.

See shitty diagram I think I've attached to the post haha. Good old paint.. I think the diagram shows what I'm doing better than me explaining...

As for the alloys/wheels and narrowed beam question. I'm looking at these Iron Cross Volkswagen Wheels - Mid America Motorworks which seem to be the same size as normal wheels, 15" x 5.5"? Wings, I've bought some second hand '71 wings in good nick to replace my battered ones.

kkkango · 08-01-2009, 06:19 PM

a bigger bar with a hexegan socket on the bolts will either shear them off or break the captive nut away from the closing panel so the body will lift off. cutting the bottom edge corner off the heater channel length will weaken it considerably but welding in braces is a good idea as any flexing will weaken the crimped body joints and you always find more rust than you first thought.

flat4fanatic · 09-01-2009, 09:42 AM

If it's just the bottom plate you'll still need to do it with the body on the chassis to lign up the holes ok in the first instance until it's tacked in place then raise it to weld it fully (don't forget to paint the inside of the channels too before fitting).